(3.5 stars)
New Pioneer Palace puts out competent Cantonese with a live seafood focus on Lakemba’s main drag. The decor, which is only viewed after you come through the frosted glass doors past the tanks packed with lobsters and depressed-looking parrotfish and coral trout, keeps that 2003 vibe alive. Expect white tablecloths, high-backed gold-edged chairs, and lazy Susans on most of the round tables. Whiteboard wall art translate the menu into Vietnamese.
From the tanks we take plump pipis in XO ($32.50/650g) served over stiff vermicelli cakes. Peking duck ($79.80) is my highlight distributed at the table over wafer thin pancakes with hoisin, cucumber and slivered shallots. The rest of the bird was presented as duck sang choi bao ($10 surcharge) in iceberg lettuce cups that struggled to contain the volume of roast bird, crisp green beans, vegetables and hoisin (some chilli wouldn’t have gone astray). While it looked good in the menu photograph, the braised beancurd combination ($26.80) ate a bit bland and stiff. Dry roasted cashews scattered over the chicken fillets with cashew nut ($20.80) added crunch and texture.
Ringed by blanched broccoli florets, the honey and spicy diced beef ($28.80) was tender and tasty. I found the special fried rice ($20.80) a bit oily but it had big hunks of chicken, beef, and decently-sized prawns. Vegetable spring rolls ($10.80) served on crisp red cabbage are exactly as you remember them. The plate of thinly sliced watermelon and orange segments will hit you right in the nostalgia too.


Jackie McMillan